Kvarnen (meaning “The Mill” in Swedish) is a living legend and a symbol of Söremalm. Its history is interwoven with the history of the city, its famous inhabitants, Swedish politics and music, and many real and fictional personalities (including The Millennium trilogy characters, see down below). 

The restaurant was opened in 1908 as “Grå Kvarn” (meaning Grey Mill), named in honour of the grey mill that stood on the site from the early 17th until mid 19th century.The walls of Grå Kvarn were covered with paintings featuring motifs of old inns. One of them has been revealed from beneath layers of old scraped-off paint, and it is now visible on the long wall across from the bar. The entire interior of today’s Kvarnen reflects fairly well how a perfectly typical restaurant might have looked at that time.

In the 1920s, Södermalm was still a very poor area with many unemployed residents. As a part of Sveriges Allmänna Restaurangbolag (SARA, Sweden’s General Restaurant Company), Grå Kvarn had a social mission – to help those in need. Here, unemployed people were offered inexpensive, traditional cuisine at certain times of day. For example, for SEK 0.60, diners could have a main course, a piece of bread, a glass of milk and their choice of a cup of coffee or beverage. Without a doubt, the traditional Thursday meal of peas, pork and pancakes attracted the most visitors. The initiative drew so many people that the line often stretched all the way out into the street, and in those days, no one was ever expected to leave a tip – it was included in the price!

Towards the late 1940s, Grå Kvarn underwent a major renovation. A significantly nicer dining room was added to the top floor, with chandeliers, parquet flooring and white tablecloths. The existing beer hall was refurbished, and separate entrances were introduced for the different dining hall “classes”. Food and drinks were hard to come by on account of the world war that was in progress, and the state was forced to ration what was produced. Ration books were introduced, a little booklet with which you exchanged stamps for meals and alcohol – for example, at Grå Kvarn. 

Ration books were abolished in 1955 and suddenly, Stockholmers could buy their food and alcohol with no limitations. As a result, restaurants were forced to compete with house parties, and to attract visitors, Grå Kvarn was transformed into a Bavarian beer house with sausages, beer and a Tyrolean orchestra that played late into the evening. To wash away the old, grey connotations, the name was changed to the current Kvarnen. The new initiative was a huge success and the restaurant went from offering ransomed food and alcohol to a for-profit company. Despite the name change, Kvarnen remained “Grållan” to many Stockholmers, even long after the renovation and the arrival of the new name.

When the German beer house craze died down in the mid-1960s, Kvarnen quickly changed course and jumped aboard the latest trend for the ideal Swedish restaurant: the British pub. A red linoleum floor was put in; dartboards were hung on the walls, and brass interior details were added. The beams were painted green and the walls were painted gold. The change from the earlier furnishings was significant, and for better or worse, not many details have survived in the Kvarnen we see today.

Meanwhile, Södermalm became home to many artists and musicians, which is still true today on this trendy island. Monica Zetterlund was a regular fixture at Kvarnen; she always sat in the same place: by the wall furthest in the back. Photographer and director Janne Halldoff was frequently sighted socialising at the restaurant throughout the 1960s and 70s. Kvarnen has also become a natural second arena for Hammarby football club fans. Supporters gathered here before and after matches for a beer and, not infrequently, for a classic of the era: the ölgåsen – a hot sandwich with cheese, ham and pineapple.

At this point, Kvarnen had become a symbol for all of Södermalm – a bit run down, but pleasant and unpretentious. Every day but Sundays, food was served for half price from three until six. Around five, tons of Stockholmers showed up at Kvarnen to eat plank steak and cured salmon. There were often so many guests that the line curled out onto the street – just like in the 1920s!

In the 1990s, Kvarnen had a clear political bent; many political meetings and debates were held at the wooden tables. The numerous hot topics discussed included Sweden’s potential entry into the EU, refugee policy and feminism. With the restaurant’s extensive working-class connection, Kvarnen was viewed as a natural home turf for the left, but in fact, except for the Moderate Party, all of the Riksdag parties of the 1990s met, debated and celebrated here. For the 1998 Riksdag election, the Left Party wanted to hold its election party at Kvarnen, but the Hammarby fans had simultaneously planned a huge after-party for an important football match. The compromise was to combine both parties and the result was a success for everyone involved!

A rehearsal space was also established inside Kvarnen in the 1990s, and the restaurant became an important melting point in Swedish music history. Musicians and bands like Bob Hund, This Perfect Day, Atomic Swing, Weeping Willows, Niclas Frisk, Janne Kask and Nina Persson often rehearsed here, and free concerts were held in the restaurant on Tuesdays. This is where it all began for the Weeping Willows, and when the TV show Så mycket bättre (So Much Better) paid tribute to Magnus Carlson, there was no doubt that a visit to Kvarnen would be on the agenda. 

Kvarnen was featured multiple times in the famous Millennium trilogy by Stieg Larsson. Here, Lisbeth Salander meets up with her friends from the fictional girl band Evil Fingers. Mikael Blomkvist is also a regular with his Millennium colleagues.

Today, more than 100 years since the opening, Kvarnen remains the heart and soul of Södermalm and is more than ready for another successful 100 years.

Source / read more: https://www.kvarnen.com/